Frequently Asked Questions

In general, storm doors range in price from about $200 for low-end, renter-grade doors, all the way up to $1,300+ for custom-made and oversized storm doors, with the average price for a decent door being between $500-$900. https://www.stormdoorguy.com/costs-and-pricing

Unfortunately, we do not offer maintenance services on doors we do not install for liability reasons.

Just click the red "Request Quote" button on the navigation menu or click this link to make an appointment: SERVICES NOT OFFERED While we focus on new storm door installations, there are a few services we do not offer: ​ Maintenance and repair of existing doors. Painting, sanding, staining, and finishing. Masonry work or siding repair, installation, or servicing. Installation on stucco or stucco repair.

We install doors in the following cities around the metro Denver, Colorado area, including: Arvada Aurora Brighton Broomfield Castle Rock Centennial Commerce City Denver Englewood Greenwood Village Highlands Ranch Lakewood Littleton Lone Tree Northglenn Parker Thornton Westminster

No. We are a very niche contractor. We don't install entry doors, do plumbing, electrical, flooring, painting, roofing, decking, drywall, or framing. We realize we know just enough to be dangerous, and you can be dangerous on your own for free! 😆 That said, having been in business for around 20 years, we know people that are good at what they do in our service area (metro Denver, Colorado). And we'd be happy to refer you; just ask us. If you are out of our service area, or need a referral to someone else, here’s a link to find a qualified contractor in your area by CLICKING HERE.

Yes, but we only sell doors when we also do the installation. We call these our Turnkey Specials, where we sell the door along with home delivery, basic installation, and removal of the old door for a flat rate. To see these, click the link below: If you want a door that we don't offer, or have a special size, we will tell you where you can get it and then we can install it for you.

Yes, but only if it is brand new in box. And only if you live in our service area (basically metro Denver, Colorado) It just can't be a used or previously installed door because we can't warranty the installation and it just creates too many headaches. We do require a Site Inspection first, just so we can make sure everything will work. Here’s the link to book an appointment: https://www.stormdoorguy.com/book-online If you live outside of our service area, here is a link to find a qualified installer in your area: https://bit.ly/3yCNvP3

Honestly, I just fell into it by accident. Short story, I owned a flooring company for many years. In 2002, I got out of that industry and was brought on as a contractor for a national financial services startup company. I created their business plan and setup their operations prior to launch. It failed only due to fraud by senior management and I was unfortunately left holding the bag. After losing everything and out of desperation, I was humbled and forced to take a job as a helper for a door installer contractor with a large retailer to keep from being evicted. After picking up the pieces of a shattered life, I discovered a niche for storm door installers and went on to build the largest storm door door installation company the big box store ever had, serving 18 stores in Colorado. After more than a decade doing that, I realized we could serve our customers better by going on our own. David vs. Goliath so to speak. And here we are today, with Storm Door Guy.

Honestly, we lost count at 16,000 doors and that was years ago.

Storm doors are always measured and described with you standing outside looking at the door. A right-hinged door means if you are standing outside and looking at where the storm door will be, the hinges are on the right and the door handle is on the left. A left-hinged door means if you are standing outside and looking at where the storm door will be, the hinges are on the left and the door handle is on the right. A left-hand outswing door means if you are standing outside and looking at where the storm door will be, the hinges are on the right and the door handle is on the left. A right-hand outswing door means if you are standing outside and looking at where the storm door will be, the hinges are on the left and the door handle is on the right.

There is an adjustment screw in the tip of the storm door closer piston. Take a phillips head screwdriver, insert it into the tip of the piston, and turn it clockwise or counterclockwise to adjust the speed of the door. Want to know which way to go for sure? If your storm door is right hinged (meaning when your standing outside looking at the door, the hinges are on the right and the door handle is on the left: 1) Turn the speed set screw in the tip of the closer counterclockwise (or towards you) to make the door close FASTER, 2) Turn the speed set screw in the tip of the closer clockwise (or away from you) to make the door close SLOWER. If your storm door is left hinged (meaning when your standing outside looking at the door, the hinges are on the left and the door handle is on the right: 1) Turn the speed set screw in the tip of the closer counterclockwise (or towards you) to make the door close SLOWER, 2) Turn the speed set screw in the tip of the closer clockwise (or away from you) to make the door close FASTER. If you try adjusting the set screw and the door does not slow down, then the unit is defective or broken and must be replaced. You can find them at any hardware store for about $5-$10, or call the manufacturer and order a replacement part. Still have questions? Check out my instructional video on how to adjust a storm door closer.

To reveal the screen in a Larson Tradewinds storm door, you must first unlock the top window by pulling the latch located on the top-middle part of the bottom glass panel. Pull this latch towards you, the reach up to the pull-down bar that is located on the top of the top glass. Pull down and voila! There’s the screen. Still need help? Watch my video on how to operate the Larson Tradewinds roll screen.

Oil the hinges with WD-40 or other silicone lubricant.

Most storm doors will open to about 90 degrees. You can get them to open a little further by removing the door closers if you are moving large furniture or objects in and out of your home.

If this happens, the bracket that attaches the closer to the storm door is loose. Since it’s loose, the “popping” noise you hear is cause from the bracket sliding side to side. All you need to do is: 1. Tighten the screws that hold the bracket to the storm door, 2. Add more screws to the bracket, or 3. Replace the screws with larger diameter ones.

This is one of a storm door’s most common problems. I can’t tell you have many people have argued with me about doors closing and latching on their own when the primary (or entry) door is closed before the storm door closes. From an attorney threatening to sue, builders and general contractors asking me if I’ve ever installed a storm door, to a scientist who actually installed 6 (yes, 6!) door closer pistons on his door in an effort to get the storm door to close and latch on it’s own, this problem drives type A personalities insane. But it’s really not a problem at all … in fact it’s simple physics. Here’s how the problem starts. You leave through the front door and pull it shut behind you. You hold the storm door open; maybe with your foot or back while you lock the entry door. When done, you get out of the way and let the storm door close on it’s own. But it when it closes, it doesn’t latch. It’s stays open slightly. Now the Type A personality spends the next 4 days adjusting the speed of the door closer(s), trying to find the scientifically accurate balance to make the door close and latch on it’s own. If this is you … stop. Just stop. You’re going to give yourself a heart attack or a stroke. There are bigger things to worry about in life. Here’s whats going on. Assuming you have an all glass door (or the screen is not down), as the storm door closes it begins to build pressure between the glass and the entry door. Normally, a storm door will close about halfway, the closers (or pistons) then kick in and slow the door down a bit, and then it closes the rest of the way. But it won’t latch at the end. As the storm door is closing, it forces the air that’s trapped between the two doors out. But there comes a point when the air can’t escape fast enough, so it builds up pressure and pushes back on the storm door and the glass, and that pressure build up forces the storm door to stay open. In the end, the air pressure wins and the storm door remains unlocked. That’s why a storm door won’t latch if the entry door is closed first, and the reason you have to push it shut in order to get it to latch. Want to fix that? Well, you have 3 options (ranked in order from hardest to easiest): 1) Change physics. Sounds absurd, but in my experience people have demanded it. 2) Put a screen in the storm door or open the window. This will break the pressure seal and allow the door to close and latch on its own. How much you have to leave the window open depends on the storm door, layout of your house, wind direction, how plumb and level your entry door is, what day of the week it is, what season, and a myriad of other factors you don’t control. 3) Just remember to push the storm door shut when you leave. I mean really? If that’s the biggest problem you have to deal with every day, you’re doing great!

Most manufacturers put the storm door’s registration number on the inside of the hinge z-bar frame. To find it, open the storm door and look at the inside of the hinge z-bar. It will be somewhere there.

For the storm door frame: dish soap and warm water. For the glass: windex and paper towel or vinegar and newspaper. Do NOT use a harsh cleaner like ajax or comet. For the handles: soap and water and brass polish if the handles are brass.

If you're looking for manufacturer contact information, replacement parts for your storm door, or owner and installation manuals, we can make it easy for you. Just click on the link to your manufacturer below to be taken to that page: For ANDERSEN replacement parts, CLICK HERE For EMCO replacement parts, CLICK HERE For LARSON replacement parts, CLICK HERE For PELLA replacement parts, CLICK HERE